If you’ve ever flipped a bottle of face wash or body cleanser to check the ingredients, you’ll know that many standard cleansing agents sound alarmingly scientific. As more people become ingredient-aware, a question I’m hearing more often is:
“What cleaning agents are actually in my skincare, and are they natural?”
It’s a brilliant question, because cleansing ingredients (known as surfactants) are found in far more than just shampoo. They appear in:
• facial cleansers
• body washes
• hand soap
• shaving bars
• bath products
• cleansing balms
• even some make-up removers
And yet, most of us only ever hear about one: sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). I was recently asked whether my shampoos contain it. SLS gained a bad reputation for being harsh and drying, which has led to confusion about what makes a surfactant gentle or strong, natural or synthetic, safe or irritating. So let’s break it down in simple terms.
What is a Surfactant?
A surfactant (short for “surface-active agent”) is a type of molecule with a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail. This broad category includes:
• detergents – foaming cleansing agents
• emulsifiers – ingredients that help oil and water mix to form creams and lotions
• solubilisers – help tiny amounts of oil disperse evenly into water-based products such as toners
When surfactants mix with water, their oil-loving tails cluster together into tiny spheres called micelles. These micelles trap excess oil, dirt and makeup so they can be rinsed away, leaving your skin clean. Surfactants are the reason your cleanser, shampoo or body wash works, and why many of them lather. This is true for household cleaners as well.
Some surfactants produce lots of foam; others produce very little. Foam does not equal effectiveness. Some low-foaming surfactants still cleanse beautifully.
Why people worry about SLS
Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) is a very effective cleanser and produces big, bubbly foam, which is why it appears in so many products. But it’s also quite strong and can be too harsh for delicate or sensitive skin.
Many people find SLS:
• drying
• irritating
• unsuitable for skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis
• too harsh for daily use
To be clear, SLS is not toxic and is considered safe to use, but it is a strong cleanser. Although it can be derived from petroleum or plant sources like coconut or palm oil, the amount of processing required means it’s considered semi-synthetic. Because of this, many natural brands prefer gentler, naturally-derived surfactants that are more in line with their values, especially those avoiding palm-based ingredients.
Meet the gentle surfactants used in Sugarbush products
At Sugarbush, I use several mild, naturally-derived surfactants across different products because they’re effective, skin-friendly and kinder to the environment. Using a blend of surfactants often increases foam and improves performance, while also creating a milder cleansing experience. This is essential for healthy skin and hair; the product cleans without stripping your natural oils.
A few of my favourite naturally-derived surfactants include Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), Coco-Glucoside and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). Below are the two used in my shampoo bars.
1. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
A luxurious, creamy, conditioning surfactant made from coconut fatty acids. Often called “baby foam” because of its gentleness, SCI is used in:
• solid facial cleansers
• body cleansing bars
• gentle exfoliating bars
• shaving bars
• mild body washes
Why it’s loved:
SCI produces a rich, creamy lather that feels indulgent without stripping the skin. It’s considered one of the mildest surfactants available and is biodegradable, an important factor for eco-conscious brands.
2. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
A mild, amphoteric (multi-purpose) surfactant derived from coconut oil. Used alongside another surfactant, it helps reduce dryness or irritation, resulting in a product that cleans effectively while also offering gentle conditioning.
CAPB is incredibly versatile and appears in:
• face washes
• bubble baths
• foaming cleansers
• liquid hand soaps
• body washes
• shampoo and shaving products
Why formulators use it:
• It boosts and stabilises foam
• It reduces potential irritation
• It makes other surfactants milder
• It’s suitable for sensitive skin
It’s even used in baby products due to its excellent skin compatibility.
These two surfactants work really well together because:
• they create a creamy, stable lather
• they cleanse effectively without stripping skin
• they’re far gentler than stronger detergents
• they’re biodegradable and environmentally friendly
• they work across many product types
This makes them ideal for solid facial bars, shampoo bars, body cleansers and foaming bath products.
Are these ingredients natural?
Yes, they are naturally derived from coconut. This means they begin with natural raw materials but undergo safe, minimal processing to make them stable, gentle and effective. This is completely normal in cosmetic formulation. Very few ingredients come straight from nature unchanged. What matters is that the final ingredient is:
• gentle
• biodegradable
• responsible
• safe for repeated use
• suitable for sensitive skin
SCI and CAPB tick every box.
Final thoughts
Surfactants don’t need to be harsh to be effective. With the right naturally-derived cleansing agents, you can enjoy beautifully clean skin without compromising your skin barrier or the planet.
If you’re ever unsure which Sugarbush product is best for your skin or hair type, feel free to drop me a message. I’m always happy to help.
